History, Nature and Kaoliang: Kinmen Island

Lying just off the coast of China is one of Taiwan’s hidden gems. Kinmen Island—the location of a number of military confrontations during the late 1940s and ’50s—punches above its weight when it comes to things to see.

Scars of war

Given its bloody past, there is no surprise that there are a number of military sights and museums for visitors to see. Even the beaches still bear the scars of the 1949 conflict—rusted iron tank defenses standing testament to the battle that was fought there. In many of the small villages dotting the island, visitors can come across the remains of pillboxes and other fortifications—some of which can even be entered and explored.

Three of the many military-themed museums in particular stand out in Kinmen. For those wishing to learn more about the conflicts that took place on the “Golden Gate” (the literal meaning of “Kinmen”), a trip to the Guning War History museum is a must. Situated near the beach where the decisive Battle of Guningtou took place, visitors can take photos with tanks, see paintings depicting the war, learn how Taiwan emerged victorious and even venture below ground to explore the labyrinth of defensive tunnels. In the neighboring villages of Nanshan and Beishan, you can find buildings that are still riddled with bullet holes from the war.

The 823 Artillery Battle Museum commemorates the 1958 Second Taiwan Strait Crisis, when artillery fire was exchanged for over a month between Kinmen Island and the Chinese mainland, just a few miles across the water . Outside the museum you can find preserved fighter jets, tanks and missiles, while inside, visitors can experience three minutes of heated battle in a virtual war room.

Lion Mountain is a unique museum. Once home to an underground artillery base, it is now open to the public, allowing tourists to see how the battle with China was conducted and see some of the huge engines of war for themselves. There are many more museums detailing Kinmen’s proud military history, from underground bunkers and tunnels to the very much underappreciated Military Brothel Museum.

Natural beauty and Kinmen Milk Tea

It is not just military buffs who will enjoy a visit to Kinmen. The island is home to a unique culture and identity that feels very different to that of mainland Taiwan. The small villages filled with beautiful, traditional red-bricked houses offer a stark contrast to the drab, gray, imposing tower blocks of Taiwan’s big cities. While exploring the island, be sure to stop at a café and try the local specialty, Kinmen milk tea—a milk tea containing a drop of the famed Kinmen liquor which gives it a much-needed kick. All over the island, visitors can discover a cultural site unique to Kinmen called Wind Lion Gods—statues of guardians that protect Kinmen’s villages from the wind. Many of these statues wear homespun cloaks, made by villages as offerings. There are 63 Wind Lion Gods scattered across the island, and if you find them all and show proof, then the park office will give you a prize.

For a place best known for its military history, Kinmen is a hidden gem when it comes to nature and natural beauty. For birdwatchers, a trip to Kinmen during the winter months is a must as this is when flocks of migratory birds arrive to nest, but a variety of species can be seen on the island throughout the year, including cormorants, kingfishers and even the rare osprey.

The lucky visitor to Kinmen may even chance upon the charming Eurasian otter. These shy creatures are nocturnal, and although can be found across the island, they can be very difficult to spot.

There are a number of ways to explore Kinmen, but by far the most rewarding is by bicycle. Many of the guest houses have bicycles to borrow or hire, but they can also be rented from a number of shops on the island for a 24-hour period. The Kinmen travel website offers five suggested bicycle routes to take, each catering to a different need—historic monument, lake and mountain, flora and greenery, military history and adventurous scenic. However, it can be just as rewarding to pick a direction and cycle. Who knows what you might discover, from crumbling military fortifications to picturesque villages or even an out-of-the-way Wind Lion Statue, Kinmen is one of the best places in Taiwan to cycle and explore, and, as a bonus, many of the roads are quiet and safe to cycle on too.

Cleavers and Kaoliang

Outside of the museums and many cultural sites around the island, Kinmen is a great place to buy some unique gifts and souvenirs. Kinmen is famous for its knives and cleavers and most tourists bring a set home with them. Kinmen’s knives are unique in that they are handcrafted using steel salvaged from the thousands of artillery rounds which were fired at the diminutive island during the late ’40s and ’50s. It is said that a single shell casing can make 60 blades.

Kinmen also has a famous distillery making Kinmen Kaoliang Liquor. This sorghum-based tipple is sold in a number of countries, and can be bought in many stores across the island. The liquor is strong—between 38% to 58%—and is best taken as a supplement to add a bit of a kick to soft drinks rather than on its own (or taken as shots as a dare among friends).

Other gifts and treats to take back home with you after a trip to Kinmen include Yi Tiao Gen (Kinmen’s version of ginseng, and a great home remedy for many minor ailments) and Gong Tang—a traditional type of candy/cake made out of peanuts. You can even buy a miniature replica of one of the wind god statues to proudly display in your home!

Taiwanese visitors will get to Kinmen by catching one of the regular flights from Taipei. These flights take approximately one hour and cost around NT$3,000 depending on the day and time of year. For accommodation, there are two main choices—hotels in the largest town of Kincheng and traditional homes that have been converted into guest houses which are located in many of the smaller villages outside of Kincheng. These guest houses are by far the most interesting option, offering a more unique experience than stopping in a big hotel, and they make for a nice Instagram photo too.

There is certainly a lot to discover on Kinmen Island, from historical sites, to culture, to nature. So, with the difficulties of international travel thanks to the pandemic, why not consider a trip a trip to the “Golden Gate” and experience the delights of Kinmen for yourself!

Feature photo by shinnjium chang, CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)